Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Free Knitting Pattern: Snow White Frozen Ice Princess Lace Dress



Free Knitting Pattern Snow White Frozen Ice Princess Lace Dress



This dress is warm enough to wear in winter and pretty enough to want to! I included a lot of different elements of winter into the lace and design of the dress- icicles, snowflakes, snow flurries.... When I first designed and knitted the dress I had the fairy tale of Snow White in mind, but I've received a ton of comments on how it makes people think of Disney's "Frozen" (perhaps Queen Elsa's wedding dress?) Though I've also used it as a Halloween costume when I was an angel (well... technically a Weeping Angel....) I really enjoy wearing it and it always floors people to learn I made it myself. 

When my husband looks over my shoulder he finds the knitting codes I use more confusing than the C++ codes I use. To help make these patterns easier I will write them more like a computer program. There are different sections to make it feel more manageable and less overwhelming. This really isn’t a difficult pattern- so long as you know the knitting stitches. There are a ton of helpful youtube videos out there to help you. J I will also include comments- which will be shown by /* comment here- hello world! */ If you don’t want or need the comments- ignore anything within- however it’s meant to be helpful for less experienced knitters (or knitters that just need to know why sometimes.) and so you know logic behind the madness. Okeydokey- here we go! 



Preparations:


Size:
XS-S-M-L-XL-XXL
Bust: 30-32in-  34-36in-  38-40in-  42-44in-  46-48in
Waist 28-30in- 30-32in-  32-33in-  33-34in-  36-38in

/* you will see it as cast on 3-3-3-6-6-6 stitches or such (don’t cast on 27 stitches!)*/

What You Will Need:

Pick out any yarn and circular knitting needles to fit guage- and 1 needle in US size 13.
 /* The size 13 needle is ONLY used in the sleeves- you can keep the same needles- but do a 2yo instead of 1yo and 4yo instead of 2yo.*/

/* I did not knit to gauge- this pattern is designed to do so though. Just in case you want to know EXACTLY what I used keep in mind that the pattern will not be quite the same so keep your eye out.

Stitches You Will Need To Know:

Stockinette Stich- k one row, p one row
Garter Stitch- in this case it’s k every row
k- knit
p- pearl
yo- yarn over /* at all points I use this to make a hole- even when increasing the skirt- I like the holes*/
2yo- yarn over twice
ssk- slip one stich knit-wise on working needle, slip one stitch pearl-wise on working needle, knit together
sssk- same as above- but slip 3 stitches over instead of 2
k2t- knit two stiches together
k3t- knit three stiches together
sk2tpsso- slip one stitch on working needle, knit 2 stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over the newest stitch
*knitting instructions* Repeat within the *’s until directions say to stop
Rib- k then p for instance- 1X1 Rib is k p k p k p 2X2 Rib is k2 p2 k2 p2 k2 3X3 Rib is k3 p3 k3 ect
Marking- take a loop of a different color of yarn to mark places between patterns- do NOT knit this into the dress- it’s just for reference- I sometimes even use twisties from the grocery store or rubber bands.

Part 1: Falling Snow Bodice




Knit from shoulders to hips.  Begin with the back piece, cut yarn, leave back piece on circular needles. Begin front piece. Then both together.

Section A- Back piece: 


Worked back and forth on needle.

Left shoulder:
Loosely cast on 11-11-11-12-12-13 Work garter stich until piece measures 1.5 cm- 1.5 cm-1.5 cm- 2.3 cm-2.3 cm- 2.3 cm (0.6 in-0.6 in-0.6 in-0.9 in-0.9 in-0.9 in.)
/* Yes- garter stitch- not stockinette stitch- why? Because I can.*/
On next row increase 1 stitch towards neckline = 12-12-12-13-13-14 stitches. Leave stitches on needle. Cut thread.

Right shoulder:
Work like left shoulder, but mirrored. 
Now cast on 38-40-42-44-46-stitches for neckline and slip stitches from the left shoulder to make one large back piece = 62-64-66-70-72-76 stitches. Piece now measures 1.9cm-1.9cm-1.9cm-2.8cm-2.8cm-2.8cm (0.75in- 0.75in- 0.75in-1.1in- 1.1in- 1.1in.)

Back piece and Falling Snow: 



Mark the middle 21 stitches. Repeat the following 12 rows until you reach the ribbing section
/*Even after you join the front and back piece!*/
This is the Falling Snow Pattern
/*Why? Well- the sweater dress I’ve knitted before was REALLY hot- so I added the Falling Snow Pattern for 2 reasons- 1. it will help keep the dress from being quite as hot and 2. it would look great to lace ribbon through the snowflakes to create a lace-up bodice.*/

1. k all
2  k4 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k4
3. k all
4. k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k5
5. k all
6. k4 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k4  
7. k all
8. ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t
9. k all
10. k1 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k1
11. k all
12. ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t

Continue to work garter stitch (with Falling Snow Pattern) until piece measures 13cm-11.9cm-11.2cm-11.9cm-11.9cm-10.2cm (5.1in-4.7in-4.4in-4.7in-4.7in-4in.)
Now increase for armhole by casting on new stitches at the end of every row – 1 stitch 3-5-6-5-4-7 times and 2 stitches 1-1-2-4-6-6 times. Cast on 3 stitches each side = 78-84-92-102-110-120 stitches.
/*Note- when it says increase 1 stitch- that means 1 stitch per arm hole- so to increase 1 stitch on a row it would mean that there would be 2 new stitches. So increasing 1 stitch 3 rows would mean you have 6 new stitches. :) */
Continue in garter stitch until piece measures 29.7cm-30.5cm-34cm-36cm-38.1cm-39.9cm (11.7in-12in-13.4in-14.2in-15in-15.7in.)
Bind off 1 stitch edge each side and slip the remaining 76-82-90-100-108-118 stitches on circular needle and do the front piece.


Section B- Front Piece:



Left shoulder:
Loosely cast on 11-11-11-12-12-13 stitches. Work garter stitch until piece measures 10.1cm-8.9cm-10.1cm-10.1cm-11.2cm-10.1cm (4in-3.5in-4in-4in-4.4in-4in.)
Increase by casting on new stitches for neckline on every other row 1 stitch 5-6-6-5-5-6 times and 2 stitches 2-2-2-3-3-3 times. At the same time when piece measures 12.9cm-11.9cm-11.2cm-11.9cm-11.9cm-10.1cm (5.1in-4.7in-4.4in-4.7in-4.7in-4in.) Increase for armhole as described for back piece.
Cut yarn and leave on circular needles.

Right shoulder:
Work like left shoulder, but mirrored. At the same time, after the last increase for neckline cast on 22-22-24-24-26-26 stitches for neckline and now work the two shoulders together.
Front piece:
Mark center 29 stitches. Knit garter stitch with the following 28 rows in the center 29 stitches. This is for the large Snowflake Pattern.

1. p 29
2. k all
3. p7 k1 p3 *k1, p2*x2 k1 p3 k1 p7
4. k7 p2 k2 p2 k3 p2 k2 p2 k7
5. p8 k2 p2 k2 p1 k2 p2 k2 p8
6. k9 p2 k2 p3 k2 p2 k9
7. p10 k2 p2 k1 p2 k2 p10
8. k8 p1 k2 p2 k1 p1 k1 p2 k2 p1 k8
9. p6 k1 p1 k2 p2 k1 *p1 k1*x2 p2 k2 p1 k1 p6
10. k9 p2 k3 p1 k3 p2 k9
11. p10 k2 p1 k3 p1 k2 p10
12. k2 p2 k2 p2 k3 p3 k1p3 k3 p2 k2 p2 k2
13. p3 *k2 p2*x2 k2 p1 k1 p1 *k2 p2*x2 k2 p3
14. k4 p2 k2 p1 k1 p2 k1 p3 k1 p2 k1 p1 k2 p2 k4
15. p5 k2 p1 k3 p1 k2 p1 k2 p1 k3 p1 k2 p5
16. k4 p2 k2 p1 k1p2 k1 p3 k1 p2 k1 p1 k2 p2 k4
17. p3 *k2 p2*x2 k2 p1 k1 p1 *k2 p2*x2 k2 p3
18. k2 p2 k2 p2 k3 p3 k1 p3 k3 p2 k2 p2 k2
19. p10 k2 p1 k3 p1 k2 p10
20. k9 p2 k3 p1 k3 p2 k9
21. p6 k1 p1 k2 p2 k1*p1 k1*X2 p2 k2 p1 k1 p6
22. k8 p1 k2 p2 k1 p1 k1 p2 k2 p1 k8
23. p10 k2 p2 k1 p2 k2 p10
24. k9 p2 k2 p3 k2 p2 k9
25. p8 k2 p2 k2 p1 k2 p2 k2 p8
26. k7 p2 k2 p2 k3 p2 k2 p2 k7
27. p7 k1 p3 *k1 p2*x2 k1 p3 k1 p7
28. p all

Work garter stitch and increase for armhole as described for back piece.
After all increase for neckline and armhole are complete there should be 78-84-92-102-110-120 stitches on needle.
Continue in garter stitch until piece measures 29.7cm-3.175cm-34cm-36cm-38.1cm-39.9cm (11.7in-12.5in-13.4in-14.2in-15in-15.7in.) Bind off 1 edge stitch each side = 76-82-90-100-108-118 stitches left. Leave stitches on needle.


Section C- Lower Part:



Worked in the round on circular needle.

Now you will be knitting all together- making152-164-180-200-216-236 stiches.
Work 4 rounds stockinette stitch. /*Don’t forget the Falling Snow Pattern!*/ At the same time increase 0-4-4-4-8-12 stitches on first round = 152-168-184-204-224-248 stitches.
Do all 2X2 Rib. At this point stop the Falling Snow Pattern.
/*I still continued doing 3 1yo's in every-other row to help continue keeping the dress cooler and have the lacing go further down my back. I have not included this in the pattern because it would be difficult to describe and again- I didn't follow my own pattern exactly... I never follow any pattern exactly and I guess that applies even to my own! ;) */
When piece measures 48.3cm-50cm-53cm-55.9cm-57.6cm-59.9cm (19in-19.7in-21in-22in-22.7in-23.6in.)
*k2 p2 yo* To end of row. 190-210-230-255-280-310 stitches. Continue 2X3 Rib 1cm (0.4in.)
*k2 yo p3* To end of row. 228-252-276-306-336-372 stitches. Continue in 3X3 Rib until piece measures 53.8.cm-55.9cm-58.9cm-62cm-64cm-66cm (21.2in-22in-23.2in-24.4in-25.2in-26in.)

Now sew together.

Part 2: Icicle Edging





p all
p all

Mark 4 sections of 24 stitches- anything that doesn’t fall in there- bind off evenly between the 4 sections. Don’t decrease stitches!
*/Or have more than 4 icicles and make 5,6 whatever amount of 24 stitch sections*/

Within each stitch marker do the following 35 rows- once you finish the 35 rows, cut the yarn- tie it to the first stitch past the next marker and repeat- each of these make one triangle of the snowflake edge.

1. k1 yo kall yo k1
2. p all
3. k1 yo sssk k1 yo k1 yo k2 yo k2 ssk sk2tpsso k2t k2 yo k2 yo k1 yo k1 k3t yo k1
4. p all
5. k1 yo sssk yo k1 yo k1 yo k2 ssk k3t yo k1 yo sssk k2t k2 yo k1 yo k1 yo k3t yo k1
6. p all
7. k1 yo ssk yo k1 yo sssk k2 k2t k2t k1 yo2 ssk ssk k2 k3t yo k1 yo k2t yo k1
8. p all
9. k1 yo sssk k1 yo k4 k2t yo k3 yo ssk k4 yo k1 k2t yo k1
10. p all
11. k1 yo k1 ssk yo ssk yo sssk yo sssk k1 k3t yo k3t yo k2t yo k2t k1 yo k1
12. p all
13. k1 yo ssk ssk k11 k2t k2t yo k1
14. p all
15. k1 yo ssk sssk yo k2 yo sk2tpsso yo k2 yo k3t k2t yo k1
16. p all
17. k1 yo k1 yo sssk ssk sk2tpsso k2t k3t yo k1 yo k1
18. p all
19. k1 yo ssk sssk yo k1 yo k3t k2t yo k1
20. p all
21. k1 yo ssk yo ssk k1 k2t yo k2t yo k1
22. p all
23. k1 yo ssk ssk k1 k2t k2t yo k1
24. p all
25. k1 yo sssk yo k1 k3t yo k1
26. p all
27. k1 yo sssk k3t yo k1
28. p all
29. ssk k1 yo k1 k2t
30. p all
31. ssk yo k1 k2t
32. p all
33. ssk 2yo k2t
34. p all
35. k3t
36. bind off

/* This is the only part of my dress that I blocked- it is extremely important to block this section though…*/

Part 3: Flowing Skirt




Turn the Snowflake Bodice inside out. Slip your needle through bottom of the Snowflake Bodice- right above where you began the Icicle Edging. This will create about 160-160-180-180-200-200 stitches. 
Do a 1X1 Rib for 12 cm (4.7 inches.) Once it does do one round k1 yo p1 yo.
Do a 2X2 Rib for 15 cm (5.9 inches.) Once it does do one round k2 yo p2 yo.
Do a 3X3 Rib for 19 cm (7.5 inches.) Once it does do one round k3 yo p3 yo.
Do a 4X4 Rib for 24 cm (9.5 inches.)
That’s it!

Part 4: Lace Snowflake Edging




Turn dress back to rightside out again.
k all- marking ever 33 stitches.
p all
k all- adding any stitches to make sure that each amount of stitches between markers is exactly 33- don’t decrease them!

*k3t yo k2t k9 k2t yo5 k10 s1k2tpsso yo s2k2tpsso* Till end of row.
*k2 k2t k9 (in the 5 yo p1 k1 p1 k1 p1 k1 p1) k9 k2t k2* Till end of row.
*k2 *k2t yo* 10X k3 *yo ssk* 10X k2* Till end of row.
k all
**k2t yo* 8X ssk1psso *yo ssk* 7X* Till end of row.
k all

Within each stitch marker do the following 20 rows- once you finish the 20 rows, cut the yarn- tie it to the first stitch past the next marker and repeat- each of these make one triangle of the snowflake edge.

1. k3t yo k3t yo *k2t yo* 3x k3t yo3 ssk *yo ssk* 3x yo sssk yo sssk
2. k (in the 3 yo p1 k1 p1) k
3. k3t yo *k2t yo* 4x sk2tpsso *yo ssk* 4x yo sssk
4. k all
5. *k3t yo* 2X *k2t yo* 2X k1 *yo ssk* 2x *yo sssk* 2X
6. k all
7. *k3t yo* 2x k2t yo k1 yo ssk *yo sssk* 2x
8. k all
9. *k3t yo* 2X k1 *yo sssk* 2X
10. k all
11. *k2t yo* 2X k1 *yo ssk* 2X
12. k all
13. k3t yo sk2tpsso yo ssk
14. k all
15. k2t yo k1 yo ssk
16. k all
17. k2t yo sssk
18. k all
19. sk2tpsso
20. Bind off

Part 5: Snowy Lace Sleeves




Cast on 60-60-75-75-90-90 stitches- marking every 15 stitches- making 4-4-5-5-6-6 even sections.
k1 row
p1 row
Knit rows 1-10 3 times

1. Within the markers knit *k2 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k2* till end of row
2. p all
3. Within markers knit *k1 yo k2t k1 ssk yo k3 yo k2t k1 ssk yo k1* till end of row
4. p all
5. Within markers knit *yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo* till end of row
/*do not do the last yo on this row- there’s no easy way to do it- instead the yo will be in the next row!*/
6. yo p all
7. Within markers knit *k1 yo k2t k1 ssk yo k3 yo k2t k1 ssk yo k1* till end of row
8. p all
9. Within the markers knit *k2 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k2* till end of row
10. p all

Now we need to decrease 15 stitches- I found the easiest way to remove markers and do *k2t yo k3t yo* till I have 15 less stitches- you will need to keep track- since otherwise this pattern may decrease too many or too little.
p all

Move markers to accommodate new 15 stitch sections. You should now have 3-3-4-4-5-5 sections.
Repeat the 10 rows above one more time.

k3t yo k3 k3t yo k3 yo k3t
p all

Knit the following 4 rows 7-7-8-8-9-9 times
1. *k2 k2t yo k3 k2t yo k1 yo ssk* till end of row
2. p all
3.  *k1 k2t yo k1 yo ssk k2 k2t yo k2*
4. p all

k3t yo k1 k3t yo k2t yo k3t

Knit the following 4 rows 5-5-6-6-7-7 times
1. *k1 k2t yo k3 k2t yo k1 yo ssk* till end of row
2. p all
3. *k2t yo k1 yo ssk k2 k2t yo k2*
4. p all

Now we bring in the big US 13 needle. Knit onto this needle- but pearl onto the round needle.
/*We want small pearls and large knits!*/

*k2t yo* till end of row
p all
*k1 yo k2t yo* till end of row
p all
*k1 yo* till end of row
p all
*k2t yo* till end of row
p all
*k2t yo* till end of row
p all
*k2t yo* till end of row
p all
*k2t yo* till end of row
p all
*k2t yo k2t yo2* till end of row
p all

bind off loosely. Sew up sleeve and attach to Snowflake Bodice.

See- that wasn’t so bad- just one step at a time. 


My Dress:


In case anyone is wondering what I used-
9 US circular needles
13 US needle

Falling Snow Bodice and Icicle Edging:
1 Ball:
Rainbow Classic 615 yards Color: 55 White Solid
Lot 1301

Flowing Skirt:
2 Balls:
Red Heart Holiday 235 yard Color: White/Silver
Lot 51266 medium

Snowflake Edging:
1 Ball:
Bernat Handicrafter Holidays 470 yards Color White
Lot 162049

Snowy Lace Sleeves:
1 Ball:
Lion Brand Yarn 162 yard Color: 301 White/Multi
Lot 67899
(It’s sparkly!)








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44 comments:

  1. This is beautiful. An amazing work of art

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  2. This is beautiful but what are the actual measurements in regards to sizing? Hip/bust ect.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for pointing that out! I added sizes- here they are:

      Size:
      XS-S-M-L-XL
      Bust: 30-32in- 34-36in- 38-40in- 42-44in- 46-48in
      Waist 28-30in- 30-32in- 32-33in- 33-34in- 36-38in

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  3. This is an amazing dress, and really easy to work from your pattern but I noticed there seems to be an error in the armhole section for the back. When following the instructions for a 38-40 inch bust, it says after you cast on three stitches on both sides, you'll have 102 stitches, but I calculate all the shapeing to end with 89 stitches. Am I somehow reading this wrong?

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    Replies
    1. Thank you very much! I can see how it'd look like that- but it means increase 1, 2, and 3 stitches per arm hole, so when it says increase 1 stitch 3 times it means you should have 6 new stitches- 3 per side. I'll be sure to put that in the notes to help others out. Thanks for pointing it out! :)

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  4. Hey how do I make it so it's bigger on waist my bust is 46" that's ok but my waist is 54" I like things too be a little tight on my waist so I would say 51"
    thank you

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  5. First of all, I wouldn't do any of the decreases between the chest and the waist. I would also add around 45 stitches throughout the round evenly. Whenever I knit from a pattern I always regularly measure and compare it to the person/myself to double check it since no 2 bodies are the same. I hope that helps! Good luck!

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    Replies
    1. Thank you it's a very beautiful dress your very creative.

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  6. I was reading the pattern and noticed that in Part 2: Icicle Edging, you said 35 rows of pattern. However, you accidentally put #20 twice (once as patt, the other as p all) so I assumed it would be 36 rows.
    I can't wait to try it out!!!
    Thanks for sharing it with us ;o)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh my goodness! Thank you for pointing that out! Thank you! I hope you have fun! :)

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  7. What a gorgeous dress!!! Thank you so much for sharing! I would love to try this pattern to make dresses for my girls - 4 and 7 years old... How would you recommend doing that? Thanks in advance for your response!

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! :) Oh my goodness- little girls would look so cute in it! Hmmm... I'm not gonna lie, I'm pretty knew at writing patterns down- I usually just make them then forget them.... I suppose what I would do is take the measurements of the children, see how they compare to the measurements of XS then divide the amount of stitches and rows by the same amount... and I'd definitely hold the dress up against them or have them try it on to see if it's going the right way- that's what I did with myself. I hope someone else with more experience will see your comment and help out as well since they might have a better idea. Good luck! :)

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    2. I just realized a huge error in my logic... :S Ok- so since you'll be knitting both a front and back you don't want to divide by the difference in size- you'll want to divide the difference in half- half for back and half for front.
      XSmeasurement/actualmeasurement/2= difference
      amountofstitches/difference= stitchesforchild size.

      Again, this is just mathematical so in practice it might be different. :S

      Delete
  8. What a beautiful dress!! Thank you very much for shareing it as a free pattern! I am wanting to make this for a christmas present but I need the shoulders and bodice /back neckline to be a few rows more (less reveling). How would you suggest I do this? I would greatly appreciate your help regarding this matter.
    Thank you again!
    Lynda

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  9. Thank you! I can definitely understand that, I'm thinking of crocheting some more collar onto mine because it does get a little low. When you're doing the Falling Snow Bodice and are in Section B- Front where it says knit the shoulder to 10.1cm-8.9cm-10.1cm-10.1cm-11.2cm-10.1cm instead knit to about 4 cm. That should make it less revealing and once you finish the neckline just continue the pattern as is- the rest of the measurements should still line up. :) Good luck!

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  10. this page right here is the reason i am a dude into knitting :D! two needles and alot of time an patience masterpiece is born :D! kudos to you

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yay! Knitting could use more dudes. :) Exactly! It's really cool the things you can make and it's so much more satisfying when you've done it yourself. :) Many happy knittings!

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  11. Does this dress flare out when you spin?

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  12. Yes, it does and looks quite lovely when it does. :)

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  13. I noticed a few things. One for your casting on method it shows 6 different options but only 5 sizes. Does that mean the dress goes to xxl instead of just XL? And if so, the cast on for the left shoulder of the front piece section only has 5 cast on options, does that mean that both the XL and the xxl size are both 13 or is the XL 12 with the large size and the xxl is 13? I just want to have that clarified. Thanks

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for pointing that out! Yes, the last is XXL. I've tried to find the section you were talking about with the left shoulder, but I'm having a hard time finding it for some reason. Would you mind copying and pasting the exact text so I can find it easier and fix it please?

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    2. I am on a cell phone so I can't copy, but it says " section b: front piece: then right below it says left shoulder: loosely cast on 11-11-12-12-13 stitches.

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    3. Thanks! It's actually supposed to say 11-11-11-12-12-13.

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  14. Also, since you leave the stitches on the needle for the first section, do we have to use 2 sets of circular needles until they are combined?

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    Replies
    1. I just slid the piece I wasn't working on to the middle of the circular needles so I wouldn't have to get out more needles. I can see that some people might find that awkward, so you can transfer it to a different set of circular needles if it's more comfortable.

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  15. I love this dress! But I have a question: this would look great floor length...How would you suggest altering the skirt to make it longer but still as full? Just knit more rows between the increases? This is beautiful, by the way :)

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! I agree- floor length would be gorgeous! :D Actually, I'd just continue the increase pattern- so 5X5 rib for 30 cm (or until it hits the floor,) 6X6 rib for 37 cm (or until it hits the floor,) and if the dress doesn't reach the floor yet then do 7X7 for 45 cm (or until it hits the floor.) That way the skirt will stay as flowy.

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    2. Thank you! :)

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  16. Can you use stocking stitch instead of garter stitch or would this not work?

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    Replies
    1. Yes, you could use stocking stitch instead of garter if you prefer. I know a lot of people will prefer the garter stitch.

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  17. What are your measurements on the XXL?

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    Replies
    1. Sorry it took so long to reply. I'm estimating here, but I believe that it would be around 49 inches for the bust and 40 for the waist. I hope that helps!

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  18. I love this pattern but my niecejust wants the skirt part. Do you think I could just cast on 160 stitches and go from there?

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    Replies
    1. Absolutely- thanks to the ribbing it should still fit. I bet it would make a lovely skirt! :)

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  19. Absolutely gorgeous!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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  20. Hi, I love this dress! Been building up my courage to make this for a while as this is by far my biggest project yet (really my first big project at all)

    I do have a question: At the end och Section C, right before de icicle edging, it says that "When piece measures 48.3
    *k2 p2 yo* To end of row. 190 stitches. Continue 2X3 Rib 1cm (0.4in.)
    *k2 yo p2 yo* To end of row. 228 stitches. Continue in 3X3 Rib until piece measures 53.8.cm" (I follow the XS pattern) - but when I do the k2 yo p2 yo on the 190 st, I keep ending up with 285 st, both mathematically and in practice... I feel like there's something obvious I'm missing here?

    Also, When the icicles are done and I'm supposed to go back and do the skirt, it says that I should pick up and have around 160 st, but shouldn't it be 190, or 228 (285?). How do I know which ones to do and which to drop?

    Thank you for helping out a beginner - I'm really not used to reading patterns!

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    1. Glad you like it! :) That's the fun thing about knitting- you do scarves for forever, too scared to try something big, but then you do and it's awesome! Sorry there was a typo that made it confusing! |P That can't be helpful for the first big project!

      It should be *k2 yo p3* Thanks for mentioning it! I will fix it right away in the directions.

      When you pick up the 160 stitches you're not really picking up the exact same stitches you did before. It's mostly focused on making sure the skirt fits right. Plus it's helpful because you don't have to make sure you don't miss a single stitch at all. I found that when I tried to gather up most of the stitches I ended up with 156 anyway so I just added 4 stitches when knitting the first row to keep everything lined up well. The nice thing is that since the bodice and the skirt are both ribbed you won't really notice the difference if you have to add or remove stitches.

      Let me know if you have more questions! Good luck!

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  21. Hi! This pattern is awesome and even though Halloween is over I think it'd be beautiful as an ice queen costume (Elsa, anyone?)
    I'm trying to figure out a way to make it with a different neckline though - I'm still quite young and my parents won't want me wearing something off the shoulder/with cleavage showing. Maybe I'll knit a cape to go with it :)

    ~Christabel

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    1. I can really understand, I think if I were to make it again I'd also make the neckline much, much higher!
      Now, I haven't tried this, so it may be a little off, but what I would try for a higher neckline is at Section B- Front Piece:

      Left shoulder:
      Loosely cast on 11-11-11-12-12-13 stitches. Work garter stitch until piece measures **5.1cm-3.8cm-5.1cm-5.1cm-6.1cm-5.1cm (2in-1.5in-2in-2in-2.4in-2in.)**
      Increase by casting on new stitches for neckline on every other row 1 stitch 5-6-6-5-5-6 times and 2 stitches 2-2-2-3-3-3 times. At the same time when piece measures **7.9cm-6.9cm-6.1cm-6.9cm-6.9cm-5.1cm (3.1in-2.7in-2.4in-2.7in-2.7in-2in.)** Increase for armhole as described for back piece.

      Then do the same, but mirrored for right side.

      Again, this is just a guess, so I would hold it up and see how it's looking to double-check that it'll still fit and everything.

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