Free Knitting Pattern Snow White Ice Princess Lace Dress
When
my husband looks over my shoulder he finds the knitting codes I use more
confusing than the C++ codes I use. To help make these patterns easier I will
write them more like a computer program. There are different sections to make
it feel more manageable and less overwhelming. This really isn’t a difficult
pattern- so long as you know the knitting stitches. There are a ton of helpful
youtube videos out there to help you. J I will also include comments-
which will be shown by /* comment here- hello world! */ If you don’t want or
need the comments- ignore anything within- however it’s meant to be helpful for
less experienced knitters (or knitters that just need to know why sometimes.)
and so you know logic behind the madness. Okeydokey- here we go!
Preparations:
Size:
XS-S-M-L-XL-XXL
Bust: 30-32in- 34-36in- 38-40in- 42-44in- 46-48in
Waist 28-30in- 30-32in- 32-33in- 33-34in- 36-38in
/* you will see it as cast on 3-3-3-6-6-6 stitches or such (don’t cast on 27 stitches!)*/
Bust: 30-32in- 34-36in- 38-40in- 42-44in- 46-48in
Waist 28-30in- 30-32in- 32-33in- 33-34in- 36-38in
/* you will see it as cast on 3-3-3-6-6-6 stitches or such (don’t cast on 27 stitches!)*/
What
You Will Need:
Pick
out any yarn and circular knitting needles to fit guage- and 1 needle in US
size 13.
/* The size 13 needle is ONLY used in the
sleeves- you can keep the same needles- but do a 2yo instead of 1yo and 4yo
instead of 2yo.*/
/* I
did not knit to gauge- this pattern is designed to do so though. Just in case
you want to know EXACTLY what I used keep in mind that the pattern will not be
quite the same so keep your eye out.
Stitches
You Will Need To Know:
Stockinette
Stich- k one row, p one row
Garter
Stitch- in this case it’s k every row
k-
knit
p-
pearl
yo-
yarn over /* at all points I use this to make a hole- even when increasing the
skirt- I like the holes*/
2yo-
yarn over twice
ssk-
slip one stich knit-wise on working needle, slip one stitch pearl-wise on
working needle, knit together
sssk-
same as above- but slip 3 stitches over instead of 2
k2t-
knit two stiches together
k3t-
knit three stiches together
sk2tpsso-
slip one stitch on working needle, knit 2 stitches together, pass the slipped
stitch over the newest stitch
*knitting
instructions* Repeat within the *’s until directions say to stop
Rib-
k then p for instance- 1X1 Rib is k p k p k p 2X2 Rib is k2 p2 k2 p2 k2 3X3 Rib
is k3 p3 k3 ect
Marking-
take a loop of a different color of yarn to mark places between patterns- do
NOT knit this into the dress- it’s just for reference- I sometimes even use
twisties from the grocery store or rubber bands.
Part 1: Falling Snow Bodice
Knit from shoulders to hips. Begin with the back piece, cut yarn, leave
back piece on circular needles. Begin front piece. Then both together.
Section A- Back piece:
Worked back and forth on needle.
Left shoulder:
Loosely cast on 11-11-11-12-12-13 Work garter stich until piece measures 1.5 cm- 1.5 cm-1.5 cm- 2.3 cm-2.3 cm- 2.3 cm (0.6 in-0.6 in-0.6 in-0.9 in-0.9 in-0.9 in.)
/* Yes- garter stitch- not
stockinette stitch- why? Because I can.*/
On next row increase 1 stitch
towards neckline = 12-12-12-13-13-14 stitches. Leave stitches on needle. Cut
thread.
Right shoulder:
Work like left shoulder, but mirrored.
Now cast on 38-40-42-44-46-stitches
for neckline and slip stitches from the left shoulder to make one large back
piece = 62-64-66-70-72-76 stitches. Piece now measures
1.9cm-1.9cm-1.9cm-2.8cm-2.8cm-2.8cm (0.75in- 0.75in- 0.75in-1.1in- 1.1in-
1.1in.)
Back piece and Falling Snow:
Mark the middle 21 stitches. Repeat the following 12 rows until you reach the ribbing section
/*Even after you join the front and
back piece!*/
This is the Falling Snow Pattern
/*Why? Well- the sweater dress I’ve
knitted before was REALLY hot- so I added the Falling Snow Pattern for 2
reasons- 1. it will help keep the dress from being quite as hot and 2. it would
look great to lace ribbon through the snowflakes to create a lace-up bodice.*/
1. k all
2 k4 ssk yo k1 yo k2t
k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k4
3. k all
4. k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k5
4. k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k5
5. k all
6. k4 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k4
6. k4 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k4
7. k all
8. ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t
8. ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t
9. k all
10. k1 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k1
10. k1 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k1
11. k all
12. ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t
12. ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t
Continue to work garter stitch (with
Falling Snow Pattern) until piece measures
13cm-11.9cm-11.2cm-11.9cm-11.9cm-10.2cm (5.1in-4.7in-4.4in-4.7in-4.7in-4in.)
Now increase for armhole by casting
on new stitches at the end of every row – 1 stitch 3-5-6-5-4-7 times and 2 stitches
1-1-2-4-6-6 times. Cast on 3 stitches each side = 78-84-92-102-110-120 stitches.
/*Note- when it says increase 1 stitch- that means 1 stitch per arm hole- so to increase 1 stitch on a row it would mean that there would be 2 new stitches. So increasing 1 stitch 3 rows would mean you have 6 new stitches. :) */
/*Note- when it says increase 1 stitch- that means 1 stitch per arm hole- so to increase 1 stitch on a row it would mean that there would be 2 new stitches. So increasing 1 stitch 3 rows would mean you have 6 new stitches. :) */
Continue in garter stitch until piece
measures 29.7cm-30.5cm-34cm-36cm-38.1cm-39.9cm
(11.7in-12in-13.4in-14.2in-15in-15.7in.)
Bind off 1 stitch edge each side and
slip the remaining 76-82-90-100-108-118 stitches on circular needle and do the
front piece.
Section B- Front Piece:
Left shoulder:
Loosely cast on 11-11-11-12-12-13 stitches. Work garter stitch until piece measures 10.1cm-8.9cm-10.1cm-10.1cm-11.2cm-10.1cm (4in-3.5in-4in-4in-4.4in-4in.)
Loosely cast on 11-11-11-12-12-13 stitches. Work garter stitch until piece measures 10.1cm-8.9cm-10.1cm-10.1cm-11.2cm-10.1cm (4in-3.5in-4in-4in-4.4in-4in.)
Increase by casting on new stitches for
neckline on every other row 1 stitch 5-6-6-5-5-6 times and 2 stitches
2-2-2-3-3-3 times. At the same time when piece measures
12.9cm-11.9cm-11.2cm-11.9cm-11.9cm-10.1cm (5.1in-4.7in-4.4in-4.7in-4.7in-4in.)
Increase for armhole as described for back piece.
Cut yarn and leave on circular needles.
Cut yarn and leave on circular needles.
Right shoulder:
Work like left shoulder, but mirrored. At the same time, after the last increase for neckline cast on 22-22-24-24-26-26 stitches for neckline and now work the two shoulders together.
Front piece:
Mark center 29 stitches. Knit garter
stitch with the following 28 rows in the center 29 stitches. This is for the
large Snowflake Pattern.
1. p 29
2. k all
3. p7 k1 p3 *k1, p2*x2 k1 p3 k1
p7
4. k7 p2 k2 p2 k3 p2 k2 p2 k7
5. p8 k2 p2 k2 p1 k2 p2 k2 p8
6. k9 p2 k2 p3 k2 p2 k9
7. p10 k2 p2 k1 p2 k2 p10
8. k8 p1 k2 p2 k1 p1 k1 p2 k2 p1
k8
9. p6 k1 p1 k2 p2 k1 *p1 k1*x2 p2
k2 p1 k1 p6
10. k9 p2 k3 p1 k3 p2 k9
11. p10 k2 p1 k3 p1 k2 p10
12. k2 p2 k2 p2 k3 p3 k1p3 k3 p2
k2 p2 k2
13. p3 *k2 p2*x2 k2 p1 k1 p1 *k2
p2*x2 k2 p3
14. k4 p2 k2 p1 k1 p2 k1 p3 k1 p2
k1 p1 k2 p2 k4
15. p5 k2 p1 k3 p1 k2 p1 k2 p1 k3
p1 k2 p5
16. k4 p2 k2 p1 k1p2 k1 p3 k1 p2
k1 p1 k2 p2 k4
17. p3 *k2 p2*x2 k2 p1 k1 p1 *k2
p2*x2 k2 p3
18. k2 p2 k2 p2 k3 p3 k1 p3 k3 p2
k2 p2 k2
19.
p10 k2 p1 k3 p1 k2 p10
20. k9 p2 k3 p1 k3 p2 k9
21. p6 k1 p1 k2 p2 k1*p1 k1*X2 p2
k2 p1 k1 p6
22. k8 p1 k2 p2 k1 p1 k1 p2 k2 p1
k8
23. p10 k2 p2 k1 p2 k2 p10
24. k9 p2 k2 p3 k2 p2 k9
25. p8 k2 p2 k2 p1 k2 p2 k2 p8
26. k7 p2 k2 p2 k3 p2 k2 p2 k7
27. p7 k1 p3 *k1 p2*x2 k1 p3 k1
p7
28. p all
Work garter stitch and increase for
armhole as described for back piece.
After all increase for neckline and
armhole are complete there should be 78-84-92-102-110-120 stitches on needle.
Continue in garter stitch until
piece measures 29.7cm-3.175cm-34cm-36cm-38.1cm-39.9cm (11.7in-12.5in-13.4in-14.2in-15in-15.7in.)
Bind off 1 edge stitch each side = 76-82-90-100-108-118 stitches left. Leave stitches
on needle.
Section C- Lower Part:
Worked in the round on circular
needle.
Now you will be knitting all
together- making152-164-180-200-216-236 stiches.
Work 4 rounds stockinette stitch.
/*Don’t forget the Falling Snow Pattern!*/ At the same time increase
0-4-4-4-8-12 stitches on first round = 152-168-184-204-224-248 stitches.
Do all 2X2 Rib. At this point stop the Falling Snow Pattern.
/*I still continued doing 3 1yo's in every-other row to help continue keeping the dress cooler and have the lacing go further down my back. I have not included this in the pattern because it would be difficult to describe and again- I didn't follow my own pattern exactly... I never follow any pattern exactly and I guess that applies even to my own! ;) */
When piece measures
48.3cm-50cm-53cm-55.9cm-57.6cm-59.9cm (19in-19.7in-21in-22in-22.7in-23.6in.)
*k2 p2 yo* To end of row.
190-210-230-255-280-310 stitches. Continue 2X3 Rib 1cm (0.4in.)
*k2 yo p2 yo* To end of row. 228-252-276-306-336-372
stitches. Continue in 3X3 Rib until piece measures 53.8.cm-55.9cm-58.9cm-62cm-64cm-66cm
(21.2in-22in-23.2in-24.4in-25.2in-26in.)
Now sew together.
Part 2: Icicle Edging
p all
p all
Mark
4 sections of 24 stitches- anything that doesn’t fall in there- bind off evenly
between the 4 sections. Don’t decrease stitches!
*/Or
have more than 4 icicles and make 5,6 whatever amount of 24 stitch sections*/
Within
each stitch marker do the following 35 rows- once you finish the 35 rows, cut
the yarn- tie it to the first stitch past the next marker and repeat- each of
these make one triangle of the snowflake edge.
1. k1
yo kall yo k1
2. p
all
3. k1
yo sssk k1 yo k1 yo k2 yo k2 ssk sk2tpsso k2t k2 yo k2 yo k1 yo k1 k3t yo k1
4. p
all
5. k1
yo sssk yo k1 yo k1 yo k2 ssk k3t yo k1 yo sssk k2t k2 yo k1 yo k1 yo k3t yo k1
6. p
all
7. k1
yo ssk yo k1 yo sssk k2 k2t k2t k1 yo2 ssk ssk k2 k3t yo k1 yo k2t yo k1
8. p
all
9. k1
yo sssk k1 yo k4 k2t yo k3 yo ssk k4 yo k1 k2t yo k1
10. p
all
11.
k1 yo k1 ssk yo ssk yo sssk yo sssk k1 k3t yo k3t yo k2t yo k2t k1 yo k1
12. p
all
13.
k1 yo ssk ssk k11 k2t k2t yo k1
14. p
all
15.
k1 yo ssk sssk yo k2 yo sk2tpsso yo k2 yo k3t k2t yo k1
16. p
all
17.
k1 yo k1 yo sssk ssk sk2tpsso k2t k3t yo k1 yo k1
18. p
all
19.
k1 yo ssk sssk yo k1 yo k3t k2t yo k1
20. p
all
21.
k1 yo ssk yo ssk k1 k2t yo k2t yo k1
22. p
all
23.
k1 yo ssk ssk k1 k2t k2t yo k1
24. p
all
25.
k1 yo sssk yo k1 k3t yo k1
26. p
all
27.
k1 yo sssk k3t yo k1
28. p
all
29.
ssk k1 yo k1 k2t
30. p
all
31.
ssk yo k1 k2t
32. p
all
33.
ssk 2yo k2t
34. p
all
35.
k3t
36.
bind off
/*
This is the only part of my dress that I blocked- it is extremely important to
block this section though…*/
Part 3: Flowing Skirt
Turn
the Snowflake Bodice inside out. Slip your needle through bottom of the
Snowflake Bodice- right above where you began the Icicle Edging. This will
create about 160-160-180-180-200-200 stitches.
Do a
1X1 Rib for 12 cm (4.7 inches.) Once it does do one round k1 yo p1 yo.
Do a
2X2 Rib for 15 cm (5.9 inches.) Once it does do one round k2 yo p2 yo.
Do a
3X3 Rib for 19 cm (7.5 inches.) Once it does do one round k3 yo p3 yo.
Do a
4X4 Rib for 24 cm (9.5 inches.)
That’s
it!
Part 4: Lace Snowflake Edging
Turn
dress back to rightside out again.
k
all- marking ever 33 stitches.
p all
k
all- adding any stitches to make sure that each amount of stitches between
markers is exactly 33- don’t decrease them!
*k3t
yo k2t k9 k2t yo5 k10 s1k2tpsso yo s2k2tpsso* Till end of row.
*k2
k2t k9 (in the 5 yo p1 k1 p1 k1 p1 k1 p1) k9 k2t k2* Till end of row.
*k2
*k2t yo* 10X k3 *yo ssk* 10X k2* Till end of row.
k all
**k2t
yo* 8X ssk1psso *yo ssk* 7X* Till end of row.
k all
Within
each stitch marker do the following 20 rows- once you finish the 20 rows, cut
the yarn- tie it to the first stitch past the next marker and repeat- each of
these make one triangle of the snowflake edge.
1. k3t
yo k3t yo *k2t yo* 3x k3t yo3 ssk *yo ssk* 3x yo sssk yo sssk
2. k
(in the 3 yo p1 k1 p1) k
3.
k3t yo *k2t yo* 4x sk2tpsso *yo ssk* 4x yo sssk
4. k
all
5. *k3t
yo* 2X *k2t yo* 2X k1 *yo ssk* 2x *yo sssk* 2X
6. k
all
7. *k3t
yo* 2x k2t yo k1 yo ssk *yo sssk* 2x
8. k
all
9. *k3t
yo* 2X k1 *yo sssk* 2X
10. k
all
11. *k2t
yo* 2X k1 *yo ssk* 2X
12. k
all
13.
k3t yo sk2tpsso yo ssk
14. k
all
15. k2t
yo k1 yo ssk
16. k
all
17. k2t
yo sssk
18. k
all
19.
sk2tpsso
20.
Bind off
Part 5: Snowy
Lace Sleeves
Cast
on 60-60-75-75-90-90 stitches- marking every 15 stitches- making 4-4-5-5-6-6 even
sections.
k1
row
p1
row
Knit
rows 1-10 3 times
1.
Within the markers knit *k2 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k2* till end of
row
2. p
all
3.
Within markers knit *k1 yo k2t k1 ssk yo k3 yo k2t k1 ssk yo k1* till end of
row
4. p
all
5.
Within markers knit *yo k2t k3 ssk yo k1 yo k2t k3 ssk yo* till end of row
/*do
not do the last yo on this row- there’s no easy way to do it- instead the yo
will be in the next row!*/
6. yo
p all
7.
Within markers knit *k1 yo k2t k1 ssk yo k3 yo k2t k1 ssk yo k1* till end of
row
8. p
all
9.
Within the markers knit *k2 yo sk2tpsso yo k5 yo sk2tpsso yo k2* till end of
row
10. p
all
Now
we need to decrease 15 stitches- I found the easiest way to remove markers and
do *k2t yo k3t yo* till I have 15 less stitches- you will need to keep track-
since otherwise this pattern may decrease too many or too little.
p all
Move
markers to accommodate new 15 stitch sections. You should now have 3-3-4-4-5-5
sections.
Repeat
the 10 rows above one more time.
k3t
yo k3 k3t yo k3 yo k3t
p all
Knit
the following 4 rows 7-7-8-8-9-9 times
1.
*k2 k2t yo k3 k2t yo k1 yo ssk* till end of row
2. p
all
3. *k1 k2t yo k1 yo ssk k2 k2t yo k2*
4. p
all
k3t
yo k1 k3t yo k2t yo k3t
Knit
the following 4 rows 5-5-6-6-7-7 times
1.
*k1 k2t yo k3 k2t yo k1 yo ssk* till end of row
2. p
all
3.
*k2t yo k1 yo ssk k2 k2t yo k2*
4. p
all
Now
we bring in the big US 13 needle. Knit onto this needle- but pearl onto the
round needle.
/*We
want small pearls and large knits!*/
*k2t
yo* till end of row
p all
*k1
yo k2t yo* till end of row
p all
*k1
yo* till end of row
p all
*k2t
yo* till end of row
p all
*k2t
yo* till end of row
p all
*k2t
yo* till end of row
p all
*k2t
yo* till end of row
p all
*k2t
yo k2t yo2* till end of row
p all
bind
off loosely. Sew up sleeve and attach to Snowflake Bodice.
See-
that wasn’t so bad- just one step at a time.
My Dress:
In case anyone is wondering what I
used-
9 US
circular needles
13 US
needle
Falling
Snow Bodice and Icicle Edging:
1
Ball:
Rainbow
Classic 615 yards Color: 55 White Solid
Lot
1301
Flowing
Skirt:
2
Balls:
Red
Heart Holiday 235 yard Color: White/Silver
Lot
51266 medium
Snowflake
Edging:
1
Ball:
Bernat
Handicrafter Holidays 470 yards Color White
Lot
162049
Snowy
Lace Sleeves:
1
Ball:
Lion
Brand Yarn 162 yard Color: 301 White/Multi
Lot
67899
This is beautiful. An amazing work of art
ReplyDeleteThank you! :)
DeleteThis is beautiful but what are the actual measurements in regards to sizing? Hip/bust ect.
ReplyDeleteThanks for pointing that out! I added sizes- here they are:
DeleteSize:
XS-S-M-L-XL
Bust: 30-32in- 34-36in- 38-40in- 42-44in- 46-48in
Waist 28-30in- 30-32in- 32-33in- 33-34in- 36-38in
This is an amazing dress, and really easy to work from your pattern but I noticed there seems to be an error in the armhole section for the back. When following the instructions for a 38-40 inch bust, it says after you cast on three stitches on both sides, you'll have 102 stitches, but I calculate all the shapeing to end with 89 stitches. Am I somehow reading this wrong?
ReplyDeleteThank you very much! I can see how it'd look like that- but it means increase 1, 2, and 3 stitches per arm hole, so when it says increase 1 stitch 3 times it means you should have 6 new stitches- 3 per side. I'll be sure to put that in the notes to help others out. Thanks for pointing it out! :)
DeleteHey how do I make it so it's bigger on waist my bust is 46" that's ok but my waist is 54" I like things too be a little tight on my waist so I would say 51"
ReplyDeletethank you
How do I make it for 51" waist
ReplyDeleteFirst of all, I wouldn't do any of the decreases between the chest and the waist. I would also add around 45 stitches throughout the round evenly. Whenever I knit from a pattern I always regularly measure and compare it to the person/myself to double check it since no 2 bodies are the same. I hope that helps! Good luck!
ReplyDeleteThank you it's a very beautiful dress your very creative.
DeleteThank you! Hope it goes well. :)
DeleteI was reading the pattern and noticed that in Part 2: Icicle Edging, you said 35 rows of pattern. However, you accidentally put #20 twice (once as patt, the other as p all) so I assumed it would be 36 rows.
ReplyDeleteI can't wait to try it out!!!
Thanks for sharing it with us ;o)
Oh my goodness! Thank you for pointing that out! Thank you! I hope you have fun! :)
DeleteWhat a gorgeous dress!!! Thank you so much for sharing! I would love to try this pattern to make dresses for my girls - 4 and 7 years old... How would you recommend doing that? Thanks in advance for your response!
ReplyDeleteThank you! :) Oh my goodness- little girls would look so cute in it! Hmmm... I'm not gonna lie, I'm pretty knew at writing patterns down- I usually just make them then forget them.... I suppose what I would do is take the measurements of the children, see how they compare to the measurements of XS then divide the amount of stitches and rows by the same amount... and I'd definitely hold the dress up against them or have them try it on to see if it's going the right way- that's what I did with myself. I hope someone else with more experience will see your comment and help out as well since they might have a better idea. Good luck! :)
DeleteI just realized a huge error in my logic... :S Ok- so since you'll be knitting both a front and back you don't want to divide by the difference in size- you'll want to divide the difference in half- half for back and half for front.
DeleteXSmeasurement/actualmeasurement/2= difference
amountofstitches/difference= stitchesforchild size.
Again, this is just mathematical so in practice it might be different. :S
What a beautiful dress!! Thank you very much for shareing it as a free pattern! I am wanting to make this for a christmas present but I need the shoulders and bodice /back neckline to be a few rows more (less reveling). How would you suggest I do this? I would greatly appreciate your help regarding this matter.
ReplyDeleteThank you again!
Lynda
Thank you! I can definitely understand that, I'm thinking of crocheting some more collar onto mine because it does get a little low. When you're doing the Falling Snow Bodice and are in Section B- Front where it says knit the shoulder to 10.1cm-8.9cm-10.1cm-10.1cm-11.2cm-10.1cm instead knit to about 4 cm. That should make it less revealing and once you finish the neckline just continue the pattern as is- the rest of the measurements should still line up. :) Good luck!
ReplyDeletethis page right here is the reason i am a dude into knitting :D! two needles and alot of time an patience masterpiece is born :D! kudos to you
ReplyDeleteYay! Knitting could use more dudes. :) Exactly! It's really cool the things you can make and it's so much more satisfying when you've done it yourself. :) Many happy knittings!
DeleteDoes this dress flare out when you spin?
ReplyDeleteYes, it does and looks quite lovely when it does. :)
ReplyDeleteI noticed a few things. One for your casting on method it shows 6 different options but only 5 sizes. Does that mean the dress goes to xxl instead of just XL? And if so, the cast on for the left shoulder of the front piece section only has 5 cast on options, does that mean that both the XL and the xxl size are both 13 or is the XL 12 with the large size and the xxl is 13? I just want to have that clarified. Thanks
ReplyDeleteThanks for pointing that out! Yes, the last is XXL. I've tried to find the section you were talking about with the left shoulder, but I'm having a hard time finding it for some reason. Would you mind copying and pasting the exact text so I can find it easier and fix it please?
DeleteI am on a cell phone so I can't copy, but it says " section b: front piece: then right below it says left shoulder: loosely cast on 11-11-12-12-13 stitches.
DeleteThanks! It's actually supposed to say 11-11-11-12-12-13.
DeleteAlso, since you leave the stitches on the needle for the first section, do we have to use 2 sets of circular needles until they are combined?
ReplyDeleteI just slid the piece I wasn't working on to the middle of the circular needles so I wouldn't have to get out more needles. I can see that some people might find that awkward, so you can transfer it to a different set of circular needles if it's more comfortable.
Delete